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John On Wine – Fans and snoring

Originally published in the Ukiah Daily Journal newspaper on Thursday, April 23, 2015

Recently, I found myself in a packed courtroom on a Friday morning in Ukiah. Thankfully, I wasn’t fighting a speeding ticket or doing my civic duty by sitting on a jury; I came to witness Mendocino County Superior Court Judge Richard Henderson hear from the lawyers in the matter of Scaramella vs. the Mendocino County Board of Supervisors.

The plaintiff, Mark Scaramella, is suing Mendocino County and named three farmers as Parties of Real Interest, claiming that wind machines are a noise nuisance which should be banned. The County has replied, among other issues, that the wind machines are an established farming practice protected by the county Right To Farm ordinance.

The three Anderson Valley neighbors of Scaramella named in the suit were Pennyroyal Farm, V. Sattui Winery, and Foursight Wines.

Scaramella was seeking an injunction to stop the use of wind machines immediately, and encouraged opponents of the fans to show up at the hearing, publicizing his request in the Anderson Valley Advertiser.

Fans are used in vineyards to mitigate damage from frost, and effectively replace the use of water to do the same job, which is a responsible vineyard management tool, especially in these times of critical water shortage owing to the continuing drought in California.

The case was a battle of competing interests, the right to be free of noise pollution and the County’s Right to Farm ordinance.

Mendocino County has a noise ordinance in place, prohibiting sound in excess of 40 decibels (dB). 40 dB is roughly equivalent to the sound produced by a babbling brook, a refrigerator hum, a library, or the lowest ambient sound of an urban area.

Because of the size of the crowd gathered Judge Henderson made a few introductory remarks to the assembled crowd, noting that many were likely Anderson Valley residents opposed to the fans, which drew an audible dissent from the majority of those gathered, before he went on to note that it seemed there were many farmers who were there to support the use of the fans, and then asking that only the lawyers speak and that the courtroom remain silent throughout the remainder of the proceedings.

I took advantage of an offer from the court clerk and moved to the jury box to sit, rather than continue to stand, and enjoyed a great view of the participants.

Judge Henderson noted that his tentative ruling had taken into account all filings thus far, but the ruling he referred to had not yet been shared with the lawyers, so a brief recess allowed copies to be made and lawyers to read the ruling.

The Ukiah Daily Journal’s Justine Frederiksen reported on April 10 that the tentative ruling read, “The court finds that the interim harm that (Mark Scaramella) may suffer, (estimated to be) 10 nights of sleep interruption of deprivation, is clearly outweighed by the probable damage that would be caused to grape vines,” and that prohibiting the use of agricultural fans during frost events, which can “kill all actively growing parts of a grape vine and will reduce yields from between 50 percent to 100 percent, could result in losses measured in the tens of millions of dollars.” Frederiksen ended her piece noting, “Judge Henderson [had] said Friday he was inclined to favor his tentative ruling, but would be releasing a formal ruling in writing soon.”

I have deep empathy for those vineyard neighbors throughout California’s wine valleys missing sleep on some nights, but I feel this is a good tentative decision. Wineries attempting to use wind instead of water during this drought to prevent catastrophic crop frost damage should be afforded every reasonable accommodation. I feared that this suit about fans could lead to further Right to Farm erosions, possible battles regarding water use and other farming practices in the future.
The judge noted that the plaintiff had not presented any real evidence of a noise ordinance violation, no certified dB readings had been taken or offered.

I thought, absent any real evidence to the contrary, that a dB level above allowed might not be owing to any one farmer’s practices, but cumulative, and while the would be sleeper is impacted, no one grower might actually be in violation of noise ordinances. It is also entirely possible that each farm exceeds noise restriction with their fans, and cumulatively it is a nightmare. I do not know. My position as a wine guy has me on the side of growers, surprising no one, I expect. This suit, to me, could be seen as an attack on Mendocino County’s largest legal industry.

I used to snore like a chainsaw, definitely well in excess of 40 dB, and more than one partner could well empathize with Scaramella. My high school best friend told me she actually thought about killing me to end the noise. I gave her my iPod and ear buds, and dialed up some music for her, and she was able to sleep. Major dental work last November ended my frightful snoring, but I well remember the murderous look in her eyes over her sleep deprivation.

I have other friends who live near vineyards and tell me that the fans are loud, but that they would rather live near healthy and profitable vineyards than not, and find ways to counter the occasional use of fans, from ear plugs to noise cancelling headphones.

I hope that Judge Henderson’s tentative ruling remains intact when crafting his final ruling. I also hope that Scaramella reads this: Walmart sells Panasonic noise cancelling headphones for $31, Best Buy sells Sony noise cancelling headphones for $50, and top of the line Bose earbuds or headphones, the Cadillac of noise cancellers, are $300 direct from Bose. I used to have a pair of Bose when I flew each week for business to wine tradeshows, and even the sound of propellers right outside the passenger cabin were masked into absence. I think an old girlfriend might have stolen mine, to make living with a new snoring boyfriend tolerable.
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Tomorrow, Friday, April 24, 2015 is International Sauvignon Blanc Day. Originally created by social media marketer Rick Bakas while at St. Supery, the world wide celebration of Sauvignon Blanc has grown, and countless wine lovers will buy and taste the variety, tweeting and posting words and pictures online using the hash tag #SauvBlanc to be part of a one day global social media trend.

Locally, McFadden will pour for the public a new Sauvignon Blanc release, from the 2014 vintage. It is the best Sauvignon Blanc I’ve tasted from McFadden, and I hope you can visit Eugene tomorrow in McFadden’s tasting room in Hopland for a complimentary tasting between 10am-5pm, bringing your cell phone or other mobile device to post while you are tasting #SauvBlanc – and if you can’t make it to Hopland, then grab a bottle from any producer in a local store and join the fun.

Yesterday, the folks behind the 2010 Wine Blog Awards opened nominations in a number of categories. I went to facebook and pretty much asked for a nomination. My very good friend, and a supremely talented writer, Nancy Cameron Iannios nominated my wine blog in the Best New Wine Blog category.

If you read my blog regularly, and feel moved to do so, here’s a link to the nomination site; you can second my nomination through April 7 at:

Click here to be taken to a place you can second my nomination, thanks!

Here is the kind nomination post Nancy left for my nomination:

I am writing to nominate JohnOnWine.com for a Wine Blog Award in the Best New Wine Blog category.

John’s blog is well read and highly ranked. His posts aren’t puff pieces, but often run t thousands of words; he writes with passion and it is felt in each article he writes.

John started in April 2009, and has 66 posts, his writing has gotten better, richer, more full month by month, post by post.

Consider his event recaps, they are the most complete, often surpassing the descriptions of wine writers who have been around the scene many more years:

Celebrating V. Sattui Winery’s 125th Anniversary

19TH Annual Zinfandel Festival

The Biggest Petite Event of them all – Dark & Delicious

Passion for Pinot Noir, a recap of the Pinot Noir Summit

John’s interview with Ravenswood’s Joel Peterson and Bedrock Wine Company’s Morgan Twain-Peterson was a must read:

A conversation with Ravenswood’s Joel Peterson and Bedrock Wine Company’s Morgan Twain-Peterson

I look forward to each winery review John writes, it is almost like being there:

Feature Spotlight: Toad Hollow Vineyards

Featured spotlight winery: Keller Estates

Mendocino Wine Company: Parducci and Paul Dolan Vineyards

I tried to taste Fetzer’s, but tasted Topel Winery’s wines instead.

John provides wine reviews:

Nine Fine Wines reviewed, with my food pairings. All socially conscious.

2005 Toad Hollow Merlot Reserve, Richard McDowell Vineyard, Russian River Valley

As well as wine book and accessory reviews:

Getting Doon with Been Doon So Long

Age Gets Better With Wine

Friends don’t let friends Vacu-Vin

Finally, John handles tougher more controversial aspects of wine, wine and health, wine blogger ethics, proposed wine excise tax increases, and entertains while he educates his readers:

Wine and pregnancy, a healthy mix.

So, you don’t get wine writers or the wine industry? I know why.

Will Trader Joe’s be forced to sell Seven Buck Chuck?

Who is behind the “Alcohol-Related Harm and Damage Services Act of 2010″ Initiative?

With respect to all of the talented first year wine bloggers nominated, I think John Cesano has to be given serious consideration for this award. John’s work is not just well read, it is referenced, tweeted, retreated, linked, and commented on with great regularity.

Thanks again to Nancy; in the spirit of full disclosure, Nancy runs a business offering consultants to wineries in need of a little help, and I am one of Nancy’s consultants.

I will say, with what limited humility I am able to muster, that I too think I have the Best New Wine Blog in the English reading world, and that I am certainly worthy of being a nominated finalist for consideration. Just sayin’.

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Yesterday there was another tweetup built around wine. From 5pm-7pm, people opened bottles of wine and tweeted about them. Some tweeps banded together, turning a tweetup into a meet up, to enjoy wine and fellowship, and then tweet about the experience.

These wine tweetups were started by Rick Bakas, who handles Social Media Marketing chores for St. Supery. Initially, the theme wine was California Cabernet, and a huge number of people opened, tasted, and tweeted about the experience, using the hashtag #CaliCab, allowing a streaming shared experience across space. Did a number of people visit St. Supery, or open a bottle of St. Supery Cab? Sure, they did.

In the wake of success, other wine tweetups followed. There have been Sauvignon Blanc (#SauvBlanc), Washington state Merlot (#WAMerlot), and yesterday was a celebration of the winemaker’s art at blending (#WineBlends).

I visited Parducci near my home in Ukiah for the March 4 Sauvignon Blanc tweetup and had a great time; I returned again yesterday to taste two wine blends.

First things first, I want to say that the tasting room gals were not only smiling hugely, but laughing freely; Parducci has some of the friendliest, most welcoming staff in the industry.

One of the wines, the 2006 Paul Dolan Vineyards Deep Red, Mendocino County, I had tasted last month with the winemaker Bob Swain. Here are my notes from then: $45 – 14.5% alc. 770 cases made. 100% Demeter certified Biodynamic. 100% Dark Horse Vineyards; 57% Syrah, 31% Petite Sirah, 12% Grenache. Deep Red represents the winemakers attempt to best capture the best expression of the single vineyard for the vintage. Plum, blueberry. The land and varietals are both speaking with an earthiness from the vineyard and spices from the Syrah, Petite Sirah and Grenache. Yesterday, I was much less analytical, enjoying the wine with some delicious Greek food made at a Ukiah shop I didn’t know exists – but will be visited often now. My notes, limited by twitter’s character limits, were much simpler; 100% Demeter Biodynamic grapes, soft tannins, red fruit, delicious flavors, utterly drinkable.

The second wine was initially made exclusively for Whole Foods, but is now available at Safeway; the 2008 Parducci Sustainable White is 41.5% Chenin Blanc, 38% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Viognier, 7.5% Muscat Canelli, and 1% Fruilliano, but 100% delish. crisp, yet fruity, unpretentious, accessible, easily drinkable.

Although I have a stack of wine books to read and review, sent to me at no cost, I bought Paul Dolan’s book, True To Our Roots: Fermenting A Business Revolution, at the tasting room and look forward to reading and reviewing it when I can get the time.

Next month’s event will be Chardonnay (#Chardonnay), and is scheduled for May 6. If you can visit a Chardonnay producing winery, like Parducci, it is completely worthwhile. You shouldn’t need an excuse to get out after work, and enjoy a little wine and food, and meet some new, like minded people. There is a rumor that Parducci is going to drag Cinco de Mayo out an extra day and have a taco truck park next to the tasting room; I hope the rumor is true. I love real tacos, I love Chardonnay; I want to find out which Chardonnay pairs best with Al Pastor.

If you can’t make it to a winery, buy a bottle of Chardonnay (French White Burgundy will do, but look for something either local to where you live or exciting to try, open it about a half hour before the appointed time to let it breathe and open up, then taste and tweet with the rest of us, starting at about 5pm.

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I got a Google alert last night just before bed, letting me know that I had been mentioned by name in someone else’s blog.

I didn’t find the post particularly complimentary; quite the opposite, I felt I had been insulted.

To be honest, I was a bit pissed. I didn’t really mind the post in and of itself, and the author was perhaps justified in his feelings about me and my actions; I just thought the author should have posted his thoughts as a comment to the article that offended him and perhaps a worthwhile conversation could occur. Instead, without contacting me, and without providing a full context, he took issue with my decision to publish the contact information, easily found using Google, of the authors of the ill considered 12,775% wine tax increase initiative they are trying to qualify for the November ballot.

Rather than count to 100, I got out of bed and crafted a comment of my own, but (perhaps fortunately) it was lost in the internet ether. I wrote my response again and posted it by email.

Having responded, I found I didn’t really care much anymore, my anger had dissipated, and reading some of the other posts on his site, I realized I had read his work before, and found just about every post I wasn’t in to be enjoyable.

Here’s a link to his original piece, along with my response which he edited in and then responded to.

I’m sure it wasn’t his intention, but you’ll find Tom Johnson’s LouisvilleJuice blog listed over in the right column where I have my blogroll.